Manual

On this page you will find all the information you need to apply a floor coating yourself.

Important information for coating

  • The processing temperature: minimum 15°C, maximum 30°C (High temperatures shorten the processing time)
  • Substrate temperature at least 10°C and 3°C above the dew point.
  • Maximum Humidity (RLV): 75% during processing and curing.
  • Cement and plaster bonded surfaces must be at least 28 days old. Cementitious substrates may not contain more than 4% residual moisture. Plaster-bound surfaces may not contain more than 1% residual moisture. Also consider your own safety: It is necessary to take the measures applicable to the processing of plastics.

Direct skin and eye contact should be avoided by using, for example, gloves and safety glasses. When using 2-component products, good ventilation is recommended. Consult the Safety Data sheets for other precautions, storage and disposal.

Preparation

  1. Allow the materials to acclimatize sufficiently in the room
  2. Make sure the surface is clean, dry and free of dirt, grease and dust.
  3. If necessary, degrease the surface with a suitable degreasing agent and allow to dry.
  4. If necessary, use abrasives to sand the surface for better adhesion.
  5. Remove dust from the floor.
  6. If necessary, cover edges and parts that should not be covered with adhesive tape.
  7. If necessary, carry out (minor) repairs.
  8. Pre-treat absorbent surfaces with a primer/primer.

NB! Depending on your surface, you may need to make some additional preparations. Click on the button below to find your surface.

Surface preparation

Below you will find information about the different subfloors on which you can apply our coating.

General:

  • Check for cracks, holes, contaminants, and other defects that could affect adhesion.
  • Remove dust, dirt, oil, grease, rust, old layers of paint and other contaminants from the surface and, if necessary, use a degreaser (e.g. St. Marc or Dasty) to clean the floor. Always rinse with clean tap water.
  • Fill cracks, holes and other damage with suitable filling materials (do not use silicone).
  • If necessary, sand the surface to create roughness for better adhesion.
  • Ensure that the surface is as dry as possible and free from dust before applying the flooring system.
  • The use of a primer can always improve adhesion, so it is never wrong to apply the primer before the coating layer is applied.

General adhesion check:
Does the coating adhere to my floor? This is usually easy to check by throwing a small cup of water on the floor. If the water is absorbed into the surface, the coating will soon do the same. If the water is on top of the floor and is difficult to absorb into the floor, an (additional) pre-treatment is probably required.

Concrete: If a curing compound has been used during hardening, the floor must be sanded with diamond, this can be easily checked by using the adhesion check. If water easily absorbs into the substrate, it is always advisable to roughen the floor by sanding it, this can be done industrially, but a grain of 60-80 is often sufficient to open the cement skin.

Sand cement screed: A frequently used finishing floor in home situations in garages, but also for example after installing underfloor heating. If possible, always roughen the floor with a 60-80-100 grit. Use the primer to remove the absorption of the substrate.

Anhydrite: The most important with an anhydrite floor finish, the floor contains little to no residual moisture (max. 1%). In addition, you should always sand an anhydrite floor finish. Roughen the floor intensively with a 60-80-100 grit.

Leveling compound: There are many types of leveling compound, the rule is that the leveling compound should no longer be wet, roughen the floor with a grit of 60-80-100 and use the primer.

Tiles: It is important to degrease tiles thoroughly and always use a primer to optimise adhesion.

Bluestone/Natural stone: The same applies as for tiles: degrease thoroughly and use a primer.

Linoleum: Applying a coating over a linoleum (or e.g. PVC substrate) is possible, but is somewhat more difficult and risky. It needs to be degreased and sanded very well with a grit of 80-100-120 to create adhesion, and always use a primer to strengthen the bonding bridge.

Wood: The coating system is excellent for use on a wooden surface. Always sand the wood with a grit of 80-100-120 and use the primer to encapsulate the fibres and remove the absorption. If the wooden floor is varnished or oiled, always sand and degrease extra well.

Plasterwork (walls): The coating can be applied vertically to (plastered) walls. Make sure the moisture is removed and apply the primer to promote adhesion.

Other substrates: If your project involves a substrate other than metal, asphalt or polyester , please contact us to explain your project. Our advisors may be able to help you with the application of the correct pretreatment or primer.

Supplies

  • 2K coating
  • Optional: Primer and/or lacquer
  • Mixing spiral (on a drill)
  • Nylon floor rollers + holder
  • Brushes
  • Telescopic pole (optional)
  • Abrasive materials (depending on surface)
  • Degreaser (if necessary)
  • Adhesive tape for masking edges (if necessary)
  • Protective equipment (gloves/safety glasses)
  • Vacuum cleaner

to blend

First stir the coating component well into a homogeneous mass, then pour the component into component A. Mix for 1 minute with a mixing spiral in a drill until a homogeneous mass is formed. Topping: Pour some of the mixed product into the B-component can, stir and pour back into the A-component. Mix everything again for another minute with the mixing spiral.

Apply

  1. Use a brush for edges and hard-to-reach places.
  2. Apply the epoxy coating evenly with a 2K nylon floor roller. Work in sections to ensure the coating is evenly distributed.
  3. Avoid excessive accumulation of the coating and roll properly and straight.

Processing time: approx. 45 minutes.

Consumption: Use approximately 200 grams per m2 per layer

To dry

  1. Allow the first coat of epoxy to dry completely before applying a subsequent coat.
  2. Ventilate the room well during the drying process.

Drying times depend on the temperature and humidity: At 23°C and maximum humidity of 50%: Dust dry after approx. 3 hours, can be walked on and overcoated after approx. 12 hours. Curing can be accelerated by forced ventilation and heating. The optimal chemical resistance is achieved after 7 days of hardening. Always apply subsequent coats within 48 hours.

Optional next step: Apply protective lacquer
Place the lacquer in a separate bucket (this is included) and stir it well at a low speed with the mixing spiral. Then apply the paint directly to the floor coating or from a paint container to the floor coating. Distribute evenly and roll well and straight. Always use a new roller and/or brush for painting. Please note: the varnish may initially appear a bit cloudy or milky, but it will dry transparent during drying.

Waste processing

If you have any leftover mixed material in the can, allow it to harden slowly in the can. In hardened form, the packaging can simply be thrown in the bulky waste. Leftover liquids must be taken to a recycling center and can be handed in (just like paint residues) at the small chemical waste point. Leftovers can be stored frost-free and have a shelf life of approx. 12 months.